The guide to healthy hair

The guide to healthy hair - As an MD, and a practicing dermatologist, I am often asked: “Is it possible to increase the longevity of hair?”

The answer is, of course not. Hair is a nonliving tissue that cannot be altered once produced by the follicle. Cosmetically, the longevity of hair is determined by how long it remains attached to the head. Thus, anything that causes hair breakage shortens the longevity of the hair shaft. That is why your aim should be to keep your hair strong by reducing breakage, which is the most common cause of hair loss.

Here are some tips to help reduce breakage and have healthy, great looking hair:

Tip #1: Manipulate the hair as little as possible

There is a belief among hairstylists that the more you do to the hair, the healthier it becomes. This is not true! There is no such thing as a “body restoring permanent wave” or a “strengthening hair dye.” The more you dye or perm your hair, the weaker it becomes. And, the more you brush, curl, twist, clip and braid your hair, the more damage it incurs. This damage is permanent since the hair is nonliving.

Tip #2: Select a wide-toothed comb with Teflon-coated tips

One of the most common insults the hair receives on a daily basis is grooming, which is usually done with a comb. Thus, it is important to select a comb that decreases hair breakage by minimizing the friction between the hair and the teeth of the comb. For this reason, a comb should have broadly spaced smooth teeth, preferably Teflon-coated, to reduce combing friction.

Combing friction is also maximal when the hair shafts are tangled. Unfortunately the most common reason for combing the hair is to remove the tangles. The most effective way to reduce hair combing friction, besides proper comb selection, is application of a conditioner.

Tip #3: Select a vented ball-tipped styling brush

The second most commonly used grooming implement is a brush, and it too requires careful selection. The main goal again is to reduce friction between the brush and the hair shafts. Select a brush design known as a blow-drying brush, for general grooming needs. These brushes possess vents or openings on the brush head to prevent heat from building up between the hair and the brush head. Furthermore, the widely spaced plastic bristles are also ball-tipped to minimize friction.

Tip #4: Do not comb wet hair

Hair is much more likely to break when wet than dry. For this reason, it is advisable to gently detangle hair following shampooing from the distal ends to the proximal ends with the fingers, not attempting combing or brushing until the hair is almost dry.

Many people feel that the hair must be styled wet in order to attain the desired style. This is only partially true. Hair will set in the position in which it is placed the instant that the last water molecule evaporates from the hair shaft. This means that the hair is optimally styled just before it is completely dry.

Tip #5: Allow hair to air-dry avoiding heated drying appliances

Many people prefer to apply heat to the hair shaft in order to speed up the evaporation of water. This can be done with a hand-held blow dryer or a hooded professional salon dryer. Unfortunately, any type of heat that is applied to the hair shafts can permanently damage the hair’s protein structure.

It is important to distinguish between the water that resides on the outside of the hair shaft when the hair is wet and the water that resides inside the hair shaft, which acts as a plasticizer.

When hair is rapidly exposed to high temperatures, the water within the shaft turns to steam and exits the hair shaft, creating a loss of cuticular scale and a condition known as “bubble hair.” Unfortunately, “bubble hair” is permanent and results in the weakening of the hair shaft that contributes to breakage.

If the hair exposure to heat is gradual, the damage effect is not as great. Thus, a gradual temperature increase is recommended. This means that hair dryers can be safely used if the nozzle blowing out hot air is held at least 12 inches from the hair, allowing the air to cool prior to touching the hair shaft. Hairdryers also should be started on low heat to initially warm the hair prior to drying it at higher temperatures.

Heated hair rollers and curling irons can also be used safely if allowed to cool before being applied to the hair.

Tip #6: Select a conditioning shampoo

Unfortunately, many patients who see a dermatologist have already severely damaged their hair and permanent restoration is not possible. Yet, it is important to council the patient on how to optimize the appearance of their damaged hair until new growth occurs, while discontinuing the damaging cosmetic procedure.

One such method of minimizing hair damage is to select a conditioning shampoo. These are available for all types of hair including dry, oily, and chemically treated hair. Silicone is instrumental in these formulas since it can coat the hair shaft without leaving the greasy appearance of sebum. The silicone also significantly reduces the friction of combing and brushing, minimizing hair breakage. Thus, patients with hair loss or chemically damaged hair may benefit from the use of a conditioning silicone-containing shampoo.

Tip #7: Apply an instant conditioner after each shampooing

One of the best recommendations a dermatologist can provide to the patient who is experiencing hair loss is to use an instant conditioner following shampooing. Use of this product will prolong hair longevity, no matter what the underlying cause of hair loss may be.

Tip #8: Consider use of a deep conditioner once a week

Occasionally it is necessary to impart more conditioning benefits to the hair fiber than what an instant conditioner delivers. This is especially the case in hair that has undergone chemical processing, such as permanent dying, bleaching, permanent waving or chemical straightening.

Deep conditioners are applied to hair for 20 to 30 minutes outside the bath or shower either at home or in a salon. There are basically two types of deep conditioners: oil treatments and protein packs. Oil treatments are usually used for kinky hair that has been straightened. In general, oil treatments are not used for straight hair, since the heavy oil leaves the hair limp and difficult to style.

Protein packs represent a second type of deep conditioner and can be used for all hair types. The protein diffuses into the hair shaft through the cuticular defects created by the chemical treatment, and can impart some strength to the hair shaft, while also smoothing the cuticular scale.

For patients who have chemically processed hair, I recommend a deep conditioner once every one to two weeks in addition to an instant conditioner after shampooing.

Tip # 9: Cut away damaged hair shafts

Many patients who are losing their hair are reluctant to cut their hair. Hair that has been damaged by too much chemical processing and too little conditioner application cannot be restored. For these patients, the overall appearance of the hair can be improved simply by removing one to two inches from the distal hair shafts. This trims away the split ends and creates new hair ends that are not frizzy, are more likely to maintain a curl and less subject to static electricity.

In short, removal of the damaged hair can create the illusion of fuller, healthier hair. Of course, the newly exposed ends must receive proper care or they will too develop an unattractive cosmetic appearance with time.

Summary

Even though hair is a nonliving substance, you can strengthen it by taking care of it in an optimal fashion. When hair is thought of as a fabric, it is easy to understand how proper handling of the hair fiber and limited exposure to damaging chemicals and environmental variables can influence its cosmetic performance. ( arabnews.com )